Flash / Strobe Topics English Bob's Flash set-up..where is it?

[Matt]

I know English Bob did a FL-36/50 flash set up awhile back but seems to have been deleted when the forums were updated. Anyone got a copy of that still or a new link? Similiar info would work as well.

thanks,Matt

[andrewteee]

If I know what you're talking about I found them as a reply within another post a week or two ago. No idea which thread or how I found it.

And BTW, are there any good online resources for flash usage in general. I'd like to understand it better and improve my flash expertise (or lack thereof).

[PdO]

http://forum.fourthirdsphoto.com/showthread.php?t=19507

[E B]

Tried this?

[olddigiman]

Originally Posted by PdO

http://forum.fourthirdsphoto.com/showthread.php?t=19507

Awesome, bookmarked! Thanks, EB!

[E B]

My pleasure.

[Matt]

Thanks Bob and everyone, some great info as I am learning to use my flash.

[E B]

My suggested flash setups were intended specifically to provide the new flash user with an optimal flash setup he could use while learning the basics. Actually, you can do pretty well with those setups in most typical flash situations.

[e_dawg]

EB,

For the more advanced user, would you still recommend those settings? They are almost antithetical to the way I shoot: ESP, aperture priority, no EC or FEC, direct flash, etc. I far prefer manual exposure with spot metering, a mix of EC and FEC (usually both negative), and often diffused or bounced, and sometimes multiple flashes. And if it's direct, I usually use the pop-down diffuser for anything closer than 10 feet indoors.

Can you offer any comments on flash settings for the advanced user?

[E B]

Originally Posted by e_dawg

EB,

For the more advanced user, would you still recommend those settings? They are almost antithetical to the way I shoot: ESP, aperture priority, no EC or FEC, direct flash, etc. I far prefer manual exposure with spot metering, a mix of EC and FEC (usually both negative), and often diffused or bounced, and sometimes multiple flashes. And if it's direct, I usually use the pop-down diffuser for anything closer than 10 feet indoors.

Yes, I still recommend the flash settings as I wrote them, as I believe they will give the best flash performance the camera/flash logic and hardware is programmed to give. Using bounce or diffusers are perfectly acceptable and do not alter the effectiveness of the flash settings as written and the camera/flash will automatically compensate as needed. Exposure compensation should seldom be needed with the setups I suggested but will work perfectly well with them if you determine it is needed. I did recommend in one of my setups that if you do need to use compensation, that you dial it in on the flash rather than the camera or a combination of the flash and camera.

Can you offer any comments on flash settings for the advanced user?

If you prefer to make all of your flash and camera settings manually and fore go the flash automation logic built into the flash and camera, don't use the Program mode and Aperture mode settings on the camera because they have certain flash performance logic hard wired to them that may override your intended usage. So if you're going with a manual setup, use the Manual or Shutter modes on the camera. Be sure to set the focal length on the flash unit as that tilts the reflector in the flash head to point at the subject. If you are shooting very close subjects, be sure and angle the head of the flash down and manually adjust the focal length on the flash unit to 12mm. That not only points the entire flash head more directly at the subject but setting the focal length to 12mm also cuts the power of the flash unit. The FL-50 is reduced from a guide number of 50 to 28 and the FL-36 is reduced from a guide number of 36 to 20. That makes a big difference if your doing your computations and setting everything up manually. In general, use the slowest shutter speed you can hand hold at as the shutter speed governs the amount of ambient lighting that will show in the image. A fast shutter speed leaves the subject illuminated by the flash and his surroundings dark, like he's standing in a cave. A slow shutter speed will show the subject illuminated by the flash and his surroundings illuminated by ambient light for a pleasing image. Rely on the short duration of the flash exposure to stop subject motion. If you are manually setting up to do an outdoor fill-in flash during daylight hours and you are not using my suggested setup, you might start with using a -2 exposure compensation so that the flash lighting doesn't override the natural light. You don't have to worry about any of this stuff if you use my suggested flash setups as it is all automatically adjusted by the camera/flash electronics.

[surfstar]

I had already read and bookmarked that thread, but with an FL-36r on the way, wish to say thanks again E B

[E B]

My pleasure. That flash will give you good service.

[lendur2]

The article/chart is now in with keepers (PDF).

[Matt]

Anyone ever shoot underexposed on purpose and the use the flash as the main light source outdoors?

I was thinking of underexposing birds in flight so I get a nice dark sky while hitting them with a flash as a main light source to illuminate their underside, probably with the better beamer at semi-close range such as seagulls within 30-50 feet. What settings do you use if so.

thanks,Matt

[Derek Wright]

I found the one page chart that Laurence Keeley (sp?) created that summarised the EB words to be most useful - but I cannot currently find them on this web site - so it is a very helpful that I downloaded them to my machine

[vciinc]

Original article is here

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/re...ssage=16048629

[lendur2]

Originally Posted by vciinc

Original article is here

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/re...ssage=16048629

And here (Keepers, this forum):
http://forum.fourthirdsphoto.com/showthread.php?t=19507

[E B]

I've never updated the DPR posting. I did update the posting on this site and would recommend this site's information as being more complete and better.

[lendur2]

Originally Posted by E B

I've never updated the DPR posting. I did update the posting on this site and would recommend this site's information as being more complete and better.

The PDF on this site was copied/pasted from *this* site. I converted it to PDF (and appended your comment about advanced use of flash to the end); then passed it on to Tony suggesting he make a sticky out of it. He agreed.

Hope that helps.

[E B]

Yes, but the post I responded to referenced my old DPR posting.

[lendur2]

Originally Posted by E B

Yes, but the post I responded to referenced my old DPR posting.

Just a little shortfall in communication. I merely said that ours was "good". No more than that.

And thank you ever so much for working out that chart. I copied it down long before I was wealthy (hah! ) enough to buy a flash. You have done us all a very great service.