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08-31-2008, 11:52 AM
1. Changing the camera ID. You can uniquely identify which camera each one of your images comes from by changing the camera ID, that is giving the camera a new name. The camera ID is a field of 31 characters that the camera places in the hardware section of the EXIF data of each of your images. By default, it reads "Olympus Digital Camera" but Olympus Studio can be used to change the default ID of the camera itself to anything you want (up to 31 characters) so that each image taken with that camera will have that data inserted into the EXIF data and the image will be specifically identified to the body that took the image. It can, of course, also be used as a less obvious sort of image watermarking as well. Attach the camera to the PC while running Studio and set the camera and software up for Camera Control mode. As soon as the software recognizes the camera and loads the current camera settings, click the Camera drop down menu and select Other Settings. The camera’s ID, date and time will be displayed and may be changed from the computer by typing in new data in the appropriate boxes.
2. Camera diopter adjustment. You do not set the diopter adjustment by looking at the image on the focusing screen. If you wear glasses for distant viewing, you should wear glasses while using your camera and while setting the diopter adjustment because the camera’s optical system must be treated as a distant object. With your glasses on, look through the viewfinder eyepiece and focus your eye on the etched AF points on the viewfinder screen - not the scenery image the camera is displaying in the viewfinder. It will help if the camera is unfocused (set to MF) and also pointed at a bright light source, such as the sky. While looking at the AF points, rapidly move the diopter adjustment lever back and forth until you arrive at the point where the double lines making up the AF points are clearest and, hopefully, seen as small paired lines instead of a single thicker line. When this is achieved, the diopter setting is correct. If several diopter settings each appear to be good, select the one that is in the middle. Movement of the diopter adjustment lever back and forth must be rapid or else your eye will try to compensate focus when the focusing screen is clearly out of focus leading to an incorrect diopter adjustment.
3. Creating an Image Processing File to control batch RAW development and/or editing in Studio.
a. Open Studio.<O:p</O:p
b. Select any ORF file.
c. Click on the Image Edit Window button (3 overlapping rings). The Image Edit Window opens with your selected ORF displayed. Make sure that the Edit Palette is displayed. If it is not, click on the View dropdown menu and select Edit Pallette.
d. You are now ready to RAW develop and edit your selected ORF image. Select the RAW Development button on the image processing bar and make the selections of your choice for RAW development. You may also select and use for the image any editing functions by selecting the appropriate buttons from the image processing bar.
e. When you've made all the RAW development and editing decisions for that image, click on the File dropdown menu and select Save Batch Processing File. Be sure to give the file a descriptive name such as RawDevelopwithcamera settings+.5exp. That will save all of your RAW development/editing decisions to a single Image Processing File. That file can be loaded to RAW develop/edit a single image (Editing Window File drop down menu-Load Image Processing File) or used to control the batch process of an unlimited number of images and will perform all of the RAW Development/editing functions on them that you've performed on this one image you used to create the file. To do that, from the Studio opening window, click the Edit dropdown menu and select Batch. A new window will open asking you to select the files you want batch processed, the location you want them saved and which Image Processing File (the RAW development and editing instructions) you want used on them.
4. E-3 hard reset:
a. Turn camera off; open card door.<O:p</O:p
b. Turn camera on.
c. Hold down OK and Menu buttons simultaneously; screen will say "E3"
d. Hold down OK and Menu buttons simultaneously for 3 seconds; camera will prompt "Reset?"; push OK button.
e. Turn camera off, then back on. All factory defaults should be restored.
5. Studio 2 Photo Organizational Capabilities:
Studio 2, unlike its predecessor, has a nice capability to organize photos. It’s not to be compared to a fully featured DAM, but is a useful tool for those having modest needs for image management. Along the left side of the Browse window is a vertically oriented Navigation window. If you don’t see it, click View-Navigation from the Menu. The directory tree normally shows in this window and you select the file that contains the images that you want to browse. There is no requirement to use the navigation window for more than this, but if you wish, it can also be the key to a very fast and competent photo organizer. If you do wish to use it as a photo organizer, it is first necessary to Register any images you wish to organize. This is an easy and quick procedure; click File-Register in Olympus Studio and a registration window opens showing the file directory. Select the file the image(s) are in and then select the image(s) and click on the Register button on the lower right of your screen. The images will be registered in just a few seconds. Registration means indexed in a data base. Now that you have registered images, they may be organized and recalled in a number of ways virtually, but the images are never duplicated or physically moved from whatever files you originally put them in.
<O:p</O:p
Note that the Navigation window has three headings at its top; an album symbol, a folder symbol and a clock/time symbol. We normally use the folder display which shows the directory of your computer and whatever natural filing system you’ve built for your photos. When you click on one of your image folders, whatever images you put in it are displayed. Now that you’ve registered some images, the clock/time symbol display is now active. When you click on it, it displays either a calendar or alternatively a timeline and each of your registered images will be displayed on the calendar or timeline based on the EXIF data date the image was captured. The third heading at the top of the Navigation window, Album, is where the true usefulness of the database comes in. You can create an unlimited number of Albums and each on can contain any one of the registered images. Let me give you an example of my use of this tool to make the explanation more lucid. I travel and take landscape photos. My basic file organization for my photos is by trip so I have a file folder for each trip. That’s what shows up on the file directory of my computer. Studio 2 lets me make Albums which I am currently identifying by destination. For example, I have a Yellowstone NP Album, a Glacier NP Album, a Big Bend NP Album, etc. I can identify any one of my registered photos to any Album (select image(s) File-Register to Album.) After an image is registered to an Album, whenever I click on the Album I see that image. So, the system works something like this; I take a trip and accumulate photos. I file those photos in the file for that trip. However, I also register all the photos and associate them with a destination Album. So when I open the trip folder I see all the images I took on that trip, but that trip may have included several destination. When I open a destination Album, I’ll see all images taken at that destination irrespective of what trip or timeline they were taken in. When I open the timeline/calendar, I see images only taken on specific dates. Hopefully, I’ve given you some idea of the utility. The database index is maintained in memory and is extremely fast. I don’t know what its maximum limit is but it certainly has no problem at all with the few thousand images I’ve put in it. I’d strongly urge that anyone that’s trying Studio 2 during the Trial Period to at least try out this feature as well.
2. Camera diopter adjustment. You do not set the diopter adjustment by looking at the image on the focusing screen. If you wear glasses for distant viewing, you should wear glasses while using your camera and while setting the diopter adjustment because the camera’s optical system must be treated as a distant object. With your glasses on, look through the viewfinder eyepiece and focus your eye on the etched AF points on the viewfinder screen - not the scenery image the camera is displaying in the viewfinder. It will help if the camera is unfocused (set to MF) and also pointed at a bright light source, such as the sky. While looking at the AF points, rapidly move the diopter adjustment lever back and forth until you arrive at the point where the double lines making up the AF points are clearest and, hopefully, seen as small paired lines instead of a single thicker line. When this is achieved, the diopter setting is correct. If several diopter settings each appear to be good, select the one that is in the middle. Movement of the diopter adjustment lever back and forth must be rapid or else your eye will try to compensate focus when the focusing screen is clearly out of focus leading to an incorrect diopter adjustment.
3. Creating an Image Processing File to control batch RAW development and/or editing in Studio.
a. Open Studio.<O:p</O:p
b. Select any ORF file.
c. Click on the Image Edit Window button (3 overlapping rings). The Image Edit Window opens with your selected ORF displayed. Make sure that the Edit Palette is displayed. If it is not, click on the View dropdown menu and select Edit Pallette.
d. You are now ready to RAW develop and edit your selected ORF image. Select the RAW Development button on the image processing bar and make the selections of your choice for RAW development. You may also select and use for the image any editing functions by selecting the appropriate buttons from the image processing bar.
e. When you've made all the RAW development and editing decisions for that image, click on the File dropdown menu and select Save Batch Processing File. Be sure to give the file a descriptive name such as RawDevelopwithcamera settings+.5exp. That will save all of your RAW development/editing decisions to a single Image Processing File. That file can be loaded to RAW develop/edit a single image (Editing Window File drop down menu-Load Image Processing File) or used to control the batch process of an unlimited number of images and will perform all of the RAW Development/editing functions on them that you've performed on this one image you used to create the file. To do that, from the Studio opening window, click the Edit dropdown menu and select Batch. A new window will open asking you to select the files you want batch processed, the location you want them saved and which Image Processing File (the RAW development and editing instructions) you want used on them.
4. E-3 hard reset:
a. Turn camera off; open card door.<O:p</O:p
b. Turn camera on.
c. Hold down OK and Menu buttons simultaneously; screen will say "E3"
d. Hold down OK and Menu buttons simultaneously for 3 seconds; camera will prompt "Reset?"; push OK button.
e. Turn camera off, then back on. All factory defaults should be restored.
5. Studio 2 Photo Organizational Capabilities:
Studio 2, unlike its predecessor, has a nice capability to organize photos. It’s not to be compared to a fully featured DAM, but is a useful tool for those having modest needs for image management. Along the left side of the Browse window is a vertically oriented Navigation window. If you don’t see it, click View-Navigation from the Menu. The directory tree normally shows in this window and you select the file that contains the images that you want to browse. There is no requirement to use the navigation window for more than this, but if you wish, it can also be the key to a very fast and competent photo organizer. If you do wish to use it as a photo organizer, it is first necessary to Register any images you wish to organize. This is an easy and quick procedure; click File-Register in Olympus Studio and a registration window opens showing the file directory. Select the file the image(s) are in and then select the image(s) and click on the Register button on the lower right of your screen. The images will be registered in just a few seconds. Registration means indexed in a data base. Now that you have registered images, they may be organized and recalled in a number of ways virtually, but the images are never duplicated or physically moved from whatever files you originally put them in.
<O:p</O:p
Note that the Navigation window has three headings at its top; an album symbol, a folder symbol and a clock/time symbol. We normally use the folder display which shows the directory of your computer and whatever natural filing system you’ve built for your photos. When you click on one of your image folders, whatever images you put in it are displayed. Now that you’ve registered some images, the clock/time symbol display is now active. When you click on it, it displays either a calendar or alternatively a timeline and each of your registered images will be displayed on the calendar or timeline based on the EXIF data date the image was captured. The third heading at the top of the Navigation window, Album, is where the true usefulness of the database comes in. You can create an unlimited number of Albums and each on can contain any one of the registered images. Let me give you an example of my use of this tool to make the explanation more lucid. I travel and take landscape photos. My basic file organization for my photos is by trip so I have a file folder for each trip. That’s what shows up on the file directory of my computer. Studio 2 lets me make Albums which I am currently identifying by destination. For example, I have a Yellowstone NP Album, a Glacier NP Album, a Big Bend NP Album, etc. I can identify any one of my registered photos to any Album (select image(s) File-Register to Album.) After an image is registered to an Album, whenever I click on the Album I see that image. So, the system works something like this; I take a trip and accumulate photos. I file those photos in the file for that trip. However, I also register all the photos and associate them with a destination Album. So when I open the trip folder I see all the images I took on that trip, but that trip may have included several destination. When I open a destination Album, I’ll see all images taken at that destination irrespective of what trip or timeline they were taken in. When I open the timeline/calendar, I see images only taken on specific dates. Hopefully, I’ve given you some idea of the utility. The database index is maintained in memory and is extremely fast. I don’t know what its maximum limit is but it certainly has no problem at all with the few thousand images I’ve put in it. I’d strongly urge that anyone that’s trying Studio 2 during the Trial Period to at least try out this feature as well.