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Thread: E1 Flash Sync Trigger Voltage

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    Default E1 Flash Sync Trigger Voltage

    I\'m not sure if this info is common knowledge or not but here goes...

    \"The FLASH Sync Trigger Voltage is the amount of voltage between the FLASH\'s two primary hotshoe contacts (center pin and rail). This voltage will be discharged by the FLASH through the camera\'s hot shoe when the FLASH fires. When a high-voltage FLASH is used, the capacitors used by the camera to trigger the FLASH can be progressively damaged. You might be surprised to discover that some rather small, innocent-looking strobe units from yesteryear can deliver high voltages. For example, an old Sunpak Auto 322, powered by nothing more than AA batteries, delivers a finger-zapping 227V.\"

    So having read information like that i eMailed OLYMPUS Japan and asked what is the threshold voltage that an E1 can handle...

    \"The E-system is designed to satisfy the ISO10330 (trigger voltage for X contact is 24V or lower). If the storobe you use is manufactured under this standards, there will be no problem.

    The E-1 and E-300 are withstand 500V or lower, but it is recommendable to keep 250V as a maximum level.\"


    So if you have a VIVITAR 283 or METZ 45CT4 in the cupboard you can now think about using them again!
    http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html


    B)
    Olympus E-600, E-1 + FS2 + SHLD2 + RM-CB1, FC-1 & RF-11, FL-36R, FL-36 + FL-CB05, 9~18 / 14~54 / 50~200SWD / 14~42 / 70~300 / 35mm / 50mm + EX-25, EC-14, MF-1 & Tamron 350mm f5.6 CAT-Mirror, 1x BLM1, Metz 45-CL4 & SlingShot 200AW

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    Default Re:E1 Flash Sync Trigger Voltage

    Of more concern is the possibility of non-Olympus dedicated flashguns doing strange things to the E-series flash control circuits. The old Olympus T-32/T-20 family designed for the OM bodies had their additional pins in front of the central firing pin and so pose no danger: I used my T-32 on the E1 with no problems ( and no TTL flash, either ) but there are a lot of other makers\' flash systems out there where the pins are behind the central pin and will touch the E-series contacts - and may cause problems.

    As far as I know, there\'s little or no information on what each manufacturer uses each additional pin for.

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    Default Re:E1 Flash Sync Trigger Voltage

    283 yipppeeee. I emailed Vivitar about the voltages & E-300 but no reply... Now I can use my old faithful..Tx.

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    Default Re:E1 Flash Sync Trigger Voltage

    iROK wrote:
    \"The E-1 and E-300 are withstand 500V or lower, but it is recommendable to keep 250V as a maximum level.\"

    So if you have a VIVITAR 283 or METZ 45CT4 in the cupboard you can now think about using them again!
    http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html


    B)
    Thanks a lot for that piece of info!!!

    I have a Vivitar 283 with 320 V trigger voltage and I haven\'t used it due to the 250 V limit stated in the manual for the E-1.

    I have been searching for a 283 with lower voltage but they have all been above 250. Now the search is over, I don\'t have to instruct any more ebay sellers how to use their Volt meter to measure the voltage. B)

    Thanks again!

    Jens

    PS. Here is a list of trigger voltages for a large number of flashes:
    http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html
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    Default Re:E1 Flash Sync Trigger Voltage

    I\'m so poor i use a NIKON SB-16B* on my E1 in AUTO Flash mode.
    I have lifted the spring clip on the E1\'s hotshoe and ducttaped over it (and then clipped it back on) so the NIKON signal pins on the flash can\'t be read by the E1 (but the tape has a hole for the central firing pin/contact).

    Manual Mode the shutter, match the lens aperture & the flash Auto mode up and away you go. Very easy to control your fill flash too.

    *Why the NIKON?
    -LOW registered voltage for Digital Camera use
    -the SB-16 has 3 Auto Modes (f4/f5.6/f8 @ ISO100)
    -GN32
    -can bounce & swival
    -can zoom the head
    -secondary \'sparkle\' flash under main head to give a little fill flash when main head bounced.
    -it was cheep
    Olympus E-600, E-1 + FS2 + SHLD2 + RM-CB1, FC-1 & RF-11, FL-36R, FL-36 + FL-CB05, 9~18 / 14~54 / 50~200SWD / 14~42 / 70~300 / 35mm / 50mm + EX-25, EC-14, MF-1 & Tamron 350mm f5.6 CAT-Mirror, 1x BLM1, Metz 45-CL4 & SlingShot 200AW

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    Default Re:E1 Flash Sync Trigger Voltage

    wrt to trigger voltage. i think most cameras will go up to 250V (E1 even to 500, which is neat), but I\'d be more worried about polarity than voltage. it\'s probably standardised, but as with all standards: there\'s so many of them! so better check that one

    secondary \'sparkle\' flash under main head to give a little fill flash when main head bounced.
    :woohoo:

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    Default Re:E1 Flash Sync Trigger Voltage

    MarcoF wrote:
    wrt to trigger voltage. i think most cameras will go up to 250V (E1 even to 500, which is neat), but I\'d be more worried about polarity than voltage. it\'s probably standardised, but as with all standards: there\'s so many of them! so better check that one
    NOPE! Many Nikon & Canon SLR users thought that they could just use their old flash, but then they soon found out their cameras no longer worked properly. A friend of a friend of mine repairs cameras, and I was told his shop was full of Nikon dSLRs that have been damaged this way.

    Whenever using unfamiliar flashes or strobes, I\'ll measure the trigger voltage before connecting my camera...if it\'s high (above 24v), I\'ll use a Safesync...if it\'s low, I\'ll just use a PC adapter (E-300 doesn\'t have a PC connector on it). Of course by measuring the voltage I\'m also checking polarity as well.

    There\'s a whole lot of flash information, including trigger voltages of common flashes over at:
    http://www.botzilla.com/photo/G1strobe.html

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    Default Re:E1 Flash Sync Trigger Voltage

    My VIVITAR 283 was on the E-1 the day it arrived - now I can shed my guilt and sleep nights:silly:
    "It's not dark yet but it's gettin' there" - Bob Dylan

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    Default Re:E1 Flash Sync Trigger Voltage

    Rest In Peace :P

    My mains-powered Sunpak goes great off the PC socket of the E-1 but my Metz 45CT\'s don\'t... must be time for a replacement cable from: www.paramountcords.com

    At least \"we\" don\'t need their DigiFlash-Voltage adaptor @ $55 USD :woohoo:
    Olympus E-600, E-1 + FS2 + SHLD2 + RM-CB1, FC-1 & RF-11, FL-36R, FL-36 + FL-CB05, 9~18 / 14~54 / 50~200SWD / 14~42 / 70~300 / 35mm / 50mm + EX-25, EC-14, MF-1 & Tamron 350mm f5.6 CAT-Mirror, 1x BLM1, Metz 45-CL4 & SlingShot 200AW

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    Default Re:E1 Flash Sync Trigger Voltage

    I\'ve used my canon 550 on the E-1 with pretty good results .. but of course manual.
    I like manual control of everything but flash ... so the fl-36 was my rescue. Great little flash. A little slow to recycle but the size made up for that.
    To find the answers - question them!

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    Default Re:E1 Flash Sync Trigger Voltage

    Because of compatabilityproblems I bought a Fl36 for my E1. Great little flash.Recycletimes are slow.But during a weddingshooting I found out that it gives more light than expected.I use rechargeble 1700mAh nimh batteries has any body out there better experiences with different kind of batteries?

    kind regards

    dick

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    Default Re:E1 Flash Sync Trigger Voltage

    I have a fl-36, and with the Sanyo 2500 the flash recycles a lot faster.
    It has a lot of power expecially for the size.
    T

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    Default Re:E1 Flash Sync Trigger Voltage

    TSPORE

    thank you very much for the information


    dick

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