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Thread: Do it Yourself Power Adapter

  1. #26
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    Default Re: Do it Yourself Power Adapter

    Well, my only problem is that I have a small apartment and I don't want a decaying bowl of fruit in my kitcken cupboard.

    I'm shooting for Crystals Growing and cloud motion, maybe even Commercial airliner vapor trails.


  2. #27
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    Default Re: Do it Yourself Power Adapter

    A month? -That would make a nice Drosophila study...

    It seems like need to eat more fruit acme!


    Cheers, Jens.
    Motto: Wildlife won't come to me unless I go to it.
    --------------------------------------------------------
    My Wildlife Photos: jensbirch.smugmug.com

    E-5, E-3, E-510, IR-E-1 ,E-P2
    ZD: 7-14, 14-54, 50, 50-200 SWD, 90-250/2.8, 300/2.8, EC-14, EC-20
    Peleng 8mm fisheye, shift Tamron SP 17/3.5, Tokina AT-X 300/2.8
    FL-50R, FL-40, FL-20, HLD-2, HLD-4, cleaved ZD EX-25 w. electric bypass, 250D, 500D, KatzEye Plus OptiBrite
    Feisol CT-3472LV and CM-1471

  3. #28
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    Default Re: Do it Yourself Power Adapter

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Meissner View Post
    Jamie used the Studio software which allows the computer to control the shutter of E-* cameras.

    Of course! I should've known that.

    Thanks, Michael.

  4. #29
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    Default Re: Do it Yourself Power Adapter

    To do that you could use a re-wired BLM-01 Charger and the Battery Holder. Stick the BLM in the charger and run the wires to the Battery Holder, that then runs into the camera.


  5. #30
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    Default Re: Do it Yourself Power Adapter

    Here is Rev. 2 of my power adapter. Much neater than before, and I took First Light's suggestion to heart, concerning the Strain Relief Point. In addition to the above, a notch was cut into the battery door—it can now close completely with the wires comfortably passing through.
    Some of you may notice the adaptation of a male and female PC power supply connectors. After searching for the right type of wire, I realized that it was right under my nose. However my CD-ROM no longer works!
    Just Kidding... I used a couple spares that I got when I built my computer.


    Click to Enlarge...

    Thanks for Looking,
    Jamie


  6. #31
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    Default Re: Do it Yourself Power Adapter

    Those are all great ideas, Jamie. And I love the lapse-photo movies. The ice cube looks like an old-time b/w due to the jittery flash.

    Now you want to do a decaying fox like in Adaptation.

  7. #32
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    Default Re: Do it Yourself Power Adapter

    Thanks for the feedback Hokuto, it's much appreciated.


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    Default Re: Do it Yourself Power Adapter

    Jamie,

    I have followed your instructions and built one of these power supplies for my 330 and 500. The metallic taps inside the new version of of the LBH-1, have been modified to the point where they no longer fit a spade lug. I was, therefore, required to solder my PS leads to the tabs. This worked quite well. And with a low power soldering iron, there was no melting /warping of the housing. I made two additional mods:
    1. I used a regulated 7.5 V power supply rated for 1000mA
    2. I used mini Phone jack/plug for my quick connect of the supply.

    Item 2 also allowed for the use of a mini Phone splitter so I could easily monitor the voltage on the second port in real time.

    Thank you very much, Jamie, for your invention of this great mod and for describing the construction method in such clear terms.

    Now if we could just get that IR port onto the back side of the camera and figure out a way to control with Studio while simultaneously viewing the video. Ha!

  9. #34
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    Default Re: Do it Yourself Power Adapter

    I couldn't have created it without the help of the others here on this forum. I'm glad you found my posts useful. Your idea of the phone jack also sounds cool. Feel free to post some photos of your adapter here in this thread if you want to.

    Jamie


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    Default Re: Do it Yourself Power Adapter

    PineTreeComputing.com (makers of the remote control software) have a howto on this now too.
    http://www.pinetreecomputing.com/cam...ries_power.asp

    Richard

  11. #36
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    Default Re: Do it Yourself Power Adapter

    I just want to open up this old thread for a bit.
    I use the E500 and 95% for astrophotography in a permanent observatory. I hate dealing with batteries and almost everything is converted to run off AC adapters.

    I was digging through the box of adapters and found a nice Motorola unit that supplies 8.4VDC, which fits nicely in the voltage range of the BLM-1 and LBH-1. But, it's 750mA and the Radio Shack unit Jamie used is 2000mA. I'm wondering if 3/4 Amp is enough to run the camera. That's quite a bit of power, the motors on several of the mounts I use draw only around 1/2 Amp.
    I've dug around everywhere I can think of and haven't found the actual Amp demand of the camera.

    As an added benefit of using an AC adapter I was wondering if it might reduce amp glow since there's no battery in the camera warming up the chip as exposures go on.

    TIA for any comments.

  12. #37
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    Default Re: Do it Yourself Power Adapter

    I think it would work. But till you try it we will not know.

  13. #38
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    Smile Re: Do it Yourself Power Adapter

    Prior to purchasing my E 510 a couple of months back I hadn't noticed the lack of a DC input socket. When I learnt that the supplied charger for the BLM1 took 5 hours to re-charge a battery I looked for a solution to enable me to keep my two BLM1's for mobile use. Like yourself I came across the LBH1 which is intended to house three CRV-3 (3 volt) batteries i.e 9 volts in total. Previously when the charger/DC adapter for my Sony TRV 355E Handycam expired I had found a switchable AC/DC power supply which among other output voltages supplies 8.4v which is the level specified in the handbook. Since the Sony also uses a 7.2v Lithium battery that appears to be the optimum voltage. Looking at pictures of the LBH1 you can see that like the LBM1 the LBH1 also has three contacts. That bothered me until I found out via Fixya.com that the one labelled "T" ,standing for Thermistor, enables cameras to monitor battery temperature and in need shut down if overheated. It serves no purpose when an external DC supply is connected. As you did I took great care to ensure that the polarity and supplied voltage were correct (using a multimeter) and like yours it works like a dream!
    Two other points:
    - The E-510 has a retaining clip which holds the LBM1 or LBH1 in position so dropping out is not a problem;
    - Care is needed when using the mod because the battery door has to remain open - a tripod solves the problem.
    Lastly, living in South Africa, I frequently visit the Kruger Park where you are mainly confined to watching Game from your vehicle and I have also made a 12v to 8.4v version (using the same LBH1) which plugs into the cigarette lighter socket.
    Many thanks for posting your solution. Hope that my addition will encourage others to consider using it.
    dave-za (Dave Heard)

  14. #39
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    Default Re: Do it Yourself Power Adapter

    Seems like the images are lost from this "Keepers" post. Anyone (administrator) knows how to get them back?

    Cheers, Jens.
    Motto: Wildlife won't come to me unless I go to it.
    --------------------------------------------------------
    My Wildlife Photos: jensbirch.smugmug.com

    E-5, E-3, E-510, IR-E-1 ,E-P2
    ZD: 7-14, 14-54, 50, 50-200 SWD, 90-250/2.8, 300/2.8, EC-14, EC-20
    Peleng 8mm fisheye, shift Tamron SP 17/3.5, Tokina AT-X 300/2.8
    FL-50R, FL-40, FL-20, HLD-2, HLD-4, cleaved ZD EX-25 w. electric bypass, 250D, 500D, KatzEye Plus OptiBrite
    Feisol CT-3472LV and CM-1471

  15. #40
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    Default Re: Do it Yourself Power Adapter

    Quote Originally Posted by jebir View Post
    Seems like the images are lost from this "Keepers" post. Anyone (administrator) knows how to get them back?

    Cheers, Jens.
    Dear Jens,
    the images are / were hosted on Jamie's smugmug account:
    http://jamiehs.smugmug.com/

    it seems that this is not valid smugmug account anymore, hence no images

    So we can't really do anything here unless somebody has cached images somewhere, or Jamie host them somewhere else.

    Yours Bojan

  16. #41
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    Default Re: Do it Yourself Power Adapter

    Here's a pic of the inside of the one I made. I soldered the connections instead of using solderless slip on connectors.
    The original power supply I used didn't have enough amps so I went with the one Jamie used. Works like a champ. I uses a tiny file to make a slot in the battery door for the cable.
    John

  17. #42
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    Default Re: Do it Yourself Power Adapter

    Great Post, it made me read it until the end..

  18. #43
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    Default Re: Do it Yourself Power Adapter

    Quote Originally Posted by Jamie View Post
    I started a thread titled "Powering my E-500 for a week straight" last week, and the goal was to make an AC wall adapter to fit the E-500 / E-330 which both lack a power plug for the Olympus AC-1 Power Adapter. I plan on doing some time-lapse sequences lasting days, not hours and I needed a way to power my E-500 other than using a BLM-01.

    rkrenn (Richard) gave me an interesting suggestion; Why not use the PS-LBH1 W Battery Holder as a method to feed power into the E-500.

    After much discussion and some advice hunting from all the knowledgeable users on this forum, the image below is what I came up with.
    (click the images for larger versions)

    #1 LBH1 connected to RadioShack 2000 mA Power Supply...


    #2 The construction required only the items below...


    #3 I am particularly pleased with the fact that the LBH1 did not need to be modified at all! The solder-less connectors just slip right on, and I gave them a firm squeeze with the pliers...


    #4 And here is the final result...


    Now for the nitty gritty...

    * do not do this to your camera unless you are willing to run the risk that you could very well fry the poor thing if you do it wrong. *
    I am responsible for my E-500 getting fried if this doesn't work out in the long run, but if you perform this modification, you do so at your own risk. This goes without saying of course, but I still said it... So there!

    The basic recipe is a 1000~2000mA AC-DC adapter. I got one at radio shack for $30. The voltage is of utmost importance and I believe that you can safely use between 7v~9v DC. My adapter goes up to 7.5v (measured 7.8 on my multi-meter) I have been told that your adapter should be 'Regulated.' The Adapter I used also has some sort of (I believe Ferrite) in-line noise suppressor at the end of the cable.
    The LBH1 Battery Case is an ideal method to send the power into the camera's body without opening it [the camera] and hot-wiring it.
    The rest is as simple as connecting the two components correctly.

    I used some female soldier-less connectors that I picked up at RadioShack as well. (I removed the little red insulation to save space and to facilitate bending them.) Once the end of the adapter's cord was snipped with my pliers, I removed the outer insulation and separated the positive and negative wires. I then crimped the solder-less connectors onto the ends of the wires and proceeded to test the systems. Remember to work on the wire-stripping and crimping with the adapter unplugged. You do not want to create a short and burn yourself or destroy the adapter.

    The Voltage coming from the 7.5v setting of the adapter was actually .3v more than stated. What is also interesting to note is that the BLM-01 actually puts out a couple more volts that it says on the battery itself. I measured my almost fully charged BLM-01 at 8.1v This gave me confidence to use the 7.5v setting on my adapter as it was within .3v of the battery I was using.

    Finding the correct leads in the battery case is as simple as touching the multi-meter to the positive on the battery case (in Ohms mode) and seeing which terminal in the case it leads to. The same goes for the negative terminal. Note that the Battery case also has the (T) Terminal as the BLM-01 has and it seems that there is some sort of electrical component in the battery case itself.

    Getting the polarity of the system correct I would believe is a very important step in the process. I don't even want to think of the sounds and smells that would come from the E-500 if I got this wrong. So, as before, once I connected the adapter to the battery case, I tested and tested again to make sure that the voltage and polarity matched the BLM-01.

    The battery case stays put, but not as well as a BLM-01 does. It slipped out once or twice when I was testing the system, but once you handle it gently or loop a rubber band around the body to hold it in, it should stay put.

    Just a note: I tried 7v(7.3 on the meter) first, and the camera gave me the low battery warning. Then I tried 7.5v(7.8 on the meter) and the camera gave no low battery icon.

    The camera sounds and operates as it should and thus far I give the mission an Accomplished status.

    (I'm not an electronics person. If I missed anything or got some terminology wrong, please correct me.)

    Jamie
    The links to your pics are dead! Also those from other articles.
    BR
    FlemmingK

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