HLD-3 conversion for E-330
(possibly E-500/510 as well)
Due to my addiction to the battery grips on my E-10, E-1, E-300, and WZ-8080,
and seeing a foreign site of the conversion (German I believe), I purchased a
new HLD-3 and decided to give it a whirl.
The foreign site as well as some follow-up posts by others left a lot to the
imagination and as I found out there was more to it than meets the eye.
I shall try to relay my findings and resolutions in the following message.
HLD-3 as received.
There were screws of varying lengths involved, so I suggest making a diagram
of the part using them. I used a paper plate with small holes punched in it.
Or, just screw them into the hole they came out of as the parts are disassembled.
First order of business is opening up the unit and removing the Thumbwheel assembly.
Notice the four screws to the right in the base of the power tower.
(that slides into camera)
This next shot shows the T_wheel assembly removed and the existing screw guide hole.
This hole will have to be elongated to line up the screw with the tapped camera
tripod hole.If you will notice there is also a raised circular ridge that the
thumbwheel fits into.I removed the right half of this ridge so the T_wheel would
fit flush against the underside of the top housing once the assembly is shifted
to the right for alignment.
This shot shows the T_wheel unit disassembled in it's original state. The
portruding flange on the thumbwheel fits in the hole and the plate is sandwiched
between the Thumbwheel and the screw.
This is the power PC Board and contact pins accessible after removing the four
screws in the base of power tower(fourth photo from top), and the five screws
accessible on outside of power tower.
While the tower is disassembled, remove the two screws holding the contact pin
assembly and push the pins down, remove and insulate them and store them in base.
These pins and wires are for the auxillary remote and shutter and unless you want
to open your camera and try to figure out how to utilize them,they are of no use
at this time.
This is also a good time to remove the appendage at the top of the tower that housed
the auxillary shutter and remote contact pins. I used a jewelers saw to cut it off
flush with the tower top. I also filed flush with the main top surface a small circular
button in the recess near the tripod screw (seen in photos 9 & 11) so the base of the
camera would rest flat when unit is tightened.
Next, insert the top plate into the camera to determine the amount the hole has to
be slotted. A round file or Moto-Tool (my preference) can be used for this.
Be aware that the hole in the metal plate for the T_wheel has to be shifted also.
Before reassembly you will also have to trim the right side of the slot that the
T_wheel slides through since the wheel will drag due to shifting the assembly to the right.
This shows the shutter button and remote wires tucked away before reassembly.
Reassembly is a reverse procedure, and you end up with IMHO a better balanced,
more comfortable, and longer battery life with deeper power to enhance the function
of the lens motors,plus the ability to add the GS-2 which I love. The original battery
door (though a tight fit) can be stored in the power tower.
(Lens focus speed due to double battery usage is arguable) ;-)
Hopefully, I have covered everything.
Best wishes,
Mickey