E-3 back focus

[payasam]

My E-3 is back focussing. This happened with all the lenses I tried. I sent the camera and a lens to the authorised repair centre in Mumbai (Bombay) and, I must say with annoyance, was made to pay for nothing. They said they had re-installed the software of the camera, but I think they had not: because that would have put all settings back to factory default but the camera came back with my settings intact.
I no longer use the camera much and so do not want to spend money on sending it abroad for adjustment: but I'd like it to work well when I do use it. To my mind, the only practical option is to either use manual focus alone or to manually adjust focus after it has auto focussed. But I find this to be slow, because the standard focussing screen is not so good for manual focus.
Does anyone know if alternative focussing screens for the E-3 are still available? Searching on the Net tells me that some were made. It seems that KatzEye are no longer in business.
[Also posted on another forum.]

[Michael Meissner]

Well another option, particularly if you are using a tripod is to put the E-3 into live view mode, and then use the back LCD. You can use the magnify function (page 32) to enlarge a given region 7x or 10x for more precise focusing. I believe you can use the arrow keys to change where the enlarged window is. You can program the AEL/AFL button to flip to the normal AF, do an auto focus operation, and then flip back to live view mode to get your camera to get close for AF, and then you would need to override it.

Unfortunately, Olympus did not add the ability to fine tune focusing for users until the last generation (E-30, E-620, E-600, and E-5).

[payasam]

Thank you. Live view is indeed an option, but it is too slow for my way of working. I seldom use a tripod except for technical work, but perhaps I should start to use one, at least sometimes, with the E-3.

[BobT]

I once had my E-3 calibrated. The technician knew what he was doing and did a good job. Of course, the lens you want the camera to be calibrated with has to be left on the camera. Also, if you normally you use a protection filter, leave it on. I had the camera calibrated on a long lens and noticed there was a very slight difference in autofocus with the filter on and off. I figure the slight phase shift through the filter glass affects the phase detect autofocus. These issues don't affect contrast detect autofocus on m4/3 cameras other than the E-M1 when used with 4/3 lenses.

[payasam]

Thank you. The only filter I use, and not often, is a polariser. But should I understand that if the E-3 is calibrated with the 25/2.8 it won't focus correctly with the 14-54?

[tomsi42]

Thank you. The only filter I use, and not often, is a polariser. But should I understand that if the E-3 is calibrated with the 25/2.8 it won't focus correctly with the 14-54?

That can happen. At least I have heard about that happens with Canon and Nikon, so I suspect that the same goes for Olympus.

[BobT]

Thank you. The only filter I use, and not often, is a polariser. But should I understand that if the E-3 is calibrated with the 25/2.8 it won't focus correctly with the 14-54?

I assume you are using a circular polarised polariser? As you probably know, the old style linear polarised polarising filter can muck up the AF. Regarding the second point, yes, certainly if the camera is calibrated with the 25/2.8 and that lens is not faulty, it will be good for all lenses it's just that it should be particularly accurate with the 25/2.8. Another thing to try, with a precision philips heat screw driver, make sure all the screws holding the lens mounting plates on the camera and lens, are tightened. It's surprising how loose they can become.

[payasam]

A circular polariser, yes. I shall see about the screws now. Thank you.